Awesome, thanks so much!!!

They should be OK. Just keep an eye on watering as if they are approaching being rootbound, they’ll go through water fast. No need to cut the pots. When you transplant, you should be able to work the pot where the transplant comes loose, then the roots should come out with it. If you get a little bit of root damage, it’ll be OK. When our plants are severely root bound, we often gently massage the roots a little bit to help them spread out a bit more, it helps with the transplant. Glad you’re following along!

Thank you that is very helpful. I do start my squash seedlings early indoors, and I usually give them one fertilizing early on, but I will up it to regular feedings. It’s also encouraging to hear that your average is also one to two squash per plant, so I know that can be expected sometimes. I am also continually experimenting with multiple different varieties, and weeding out the ones that do poorly for several years in a row.

Thanks for the comment! Yes, we’re in Fairbanks. We do grow a few varieties of Pepo here. A few thoughts? If you’re not currently starting your plants about 4-5 weeks to last frost, that will help with earlier flowering and thus fruit set. I’d also add that 1-2 squash per (winter C. pepo) plant is fairly typical in our experience. We can sometimes achieve more, but 1-2 is likely our per plant average. (Summer c. Pepo are much more prolific.) We try to achieve quantity with many plants. Also, I think we discuss this in the article, but some varieties just don’t do well. It’s a genetic thing, I’m sure, but we just move on to something else. We saw low production until we kept playing with varieties enough until all our varieties were reasonable producers. The last thing I’d add is that squash are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular applications of fertilizer, we prefer water soluble. This helps us achieve rather large plants, which translates to more flowers and thus more opportunities. Plus it fuels deep root development, which helps water uptake and fruit maturation. Hope that helps!

Definitely looking forward to documenting the results from this 🙂

I totally agree with the literature out there. You can find information both ways. I don’t have the study handy, but I found one where they did “supposedly” prove parthenocarpy in those two varieties. There’s a ton of variability involved (temperature, general growing conditions, stress, etc) that impacts parthenocarpy. A given study can only assess so many variables.

I’ve seriously thought about removing our statement about “some winter squash varieties” as I just don’t have a high degree of certainty about it. I also have no easy means (or desire) of testing it myself. But, then again, it brings us occasional nice interactions from people like you! So, I guess here’s to a vibrant discussion in the comments!

Hey Jeff!

Thanks for reaching out so quick. It’s so crazy to me that there’s such little literature on the topic, considering the main benefit of parthenocarpy is the ability to reduce pest pressure in a greenhouse.

I’m definitely optimistic, but we’ll see! I’ll be sure to remind myself to update this post in a year or so with any observations.

As a side note, I’d be dubious of information saying that the honey boat or royal exhibit parthenocarpy. According to this scientific journal, tests over 3 years resulted in 0 flowers from either variety displaying this trait 🙁

https://scispace.com/pdf/parthenocarpy-in-summer-squash-3sifes36if.pdf

Thank you! I too have gone deep down this rabbit hole. From my research, there are rather few parthenocarpic winter squash out there. It’s much more common to see either full or partial parthenocarpy in summer squash. But, a couple that I dug out of that deep research were Honey Boat Delicata and Royal Acorn. I suspect that there are others, but as you note, the research out there is pretty thin. Good luck with your efforts, would love to know if you’re successful with your breeding efforts!

This was a very nice article to read. I actually discovered it while doing research on parthenocarpy in winter squash… something with very little material written on it.

In your post, you mentioned that they’re rare to find, but some cultivars exist. Would you be able to share some of those cultivars with me?

Next year, I’ll be getting a greenhouse, and I’d like to experiment with breeding parthenocarpy into C.pepo winter squash using donor pollen from parthenocarpic zucchini. However, if there are already some C.pepo winter squash with this trait, that makes the process of proliferating it much easier!

Thanks so much!
Cheers

Greetings! We’re glad you found us, too! Thanks for sharing your experience! We like the Ft. Nelson area in BC!

From what I recall, we haven’t yet tried the true “spaghetti squash” variety yet, but we do grow quite a few other varieties. We grow our squash outdoors in raised rows, which allow the soil to be warmed up reasonably quickly. As for growing squash in a poly tunnel, the only “gotcha” is that you often have to pollinate by hand. Squash are monoecious, meaning pollen has to travel from the male flower to the female flowers, and tunnels/greenhouses often block pollinators. Squash would definitely appreciate the added heat, but it’s a tradeoff in a lot more labor. Hope that helps! Good luck next season!

All squash a fairly sensitive to cooler temperatures. They can tolerate into the 40’s, but will grow much more slowly at these temps. Into the mid-30’s, they will typically experience severe frost damage, which will eventually result in their loss. Sorry for the bad news!